Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, near Maincy and Melun south-east of Paris, is the Baroque château that changed French architecture. It was built between 1658 and 1661 for Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV's ambitious superintendent of finances, who assembled three talents at the height of their powers — the architect Louis Le Vau, the garden designer André Le Nôtre and the painter-decorator Charles Le Brun. It was the first time the three worked together, and the harmony they achieved here, of building, decoration and landscape conceived as a single composition, was so admired that the young king later reassembled the same trio to create Versailles.
The garden is the revelation. Le Nôtre laid out a vast central axis running away from the château through parterres, fountains, ornamental pools and a hidden grand canal, using forced perspective and shifting levels so that the view unfolds and surprises as you walk it — a pioneering statement of the French formal garden that he would refine across the rest of his career. Inside, Le Vau's domed central salon and Le Brun's painted ceilings and richly decorated state apartments give a sense of the taste that Fouquet, a discerning patron, commanded.
The story of Vaux is also a cautionary tale of ambition. On 17 August 1661 Fouquet threw a legendary fête for the king, with Molière, fireworks and a banquet of unrivalled splendour. Within weeks Louis XIV had him arrested for embezzlement; Fouquet died in prison years later, and the king took his artists, his orange trees and his ideas to Versailles. The privately owned château survives beautifully restored today, and its signature Candlelit Evenings — when some two thousand candles light the rooms and gardens — and its turn as a location for the James Bond film Moonraker have kept its romance alive. The standard day ticket is open-dated: choose your day in season and walk straight in.